How to wear a white men's shirt properly.
On September 10, 2012, Hast sold his very first piece. Which one? We'll give you a thousand guesses: an elegant white poplin shirt . Like a symbol.
Ten years later, our range has expanded to make room for all the essentials of the classic men's wardrobe, but we must recognize that the bond that unites us to this piece remains special, sentimentally and historically. In homage to our first love and with a decade of hindsight on the matter, we invite you to question the best ways to wear the white shirt.
Fabrics that say a lot.
If it is not taught at school (although!), believe me, fabrics have a language all their own. Before thinking about color or collar, make sure you understand the language of your shirt to avoid any misunderstanding. Whether you are bilingual or a beginner, a little reminder is necessary to master the basics of this language in warp and weft:
- Dobby : named after the loom used to weave it, the "honeycomb" . Extremely refined, this subtly embossed weave brings consistency and elegance, which is why it is regularly popular in (very) formal settings. If the opportunity arises to wear a tuxedo, it is likely to be worn with a white dobby shirt, and you will do well.
- Poplin : the emblematic material of the formal shirt , poplin takes its name from the papal city of Avignon where it was invented in the 15th century. Thanks to relatively fine threads and a very tight weave , this fabric has a smooth and silky appearance that makes it the main ally of formal outfits. Fine, supple and light , poplin is without a doubt the most effective fabric for making a simple, no-frills formal shirt.
- Pinpoint : a hybrid fabric if ever there was one, pinpoint remains in the fold of distinguished fabrics without hiding a taste for structure and density. Prodigiously combining the weave of oxford and the finesse of poplin , it constitutes a formal variation of the first, or a less strict version of the second. An in-between? Let's say a happy medium.
- Oxford : noticeably thicker than poplin, Oxford is known as the white wolf among fans of casual shirts. But not only that. Doubled in warp and weft, the weave of this iconic fabric reveals a rich texture and unparalleled generosity. Historically mottled with threads of different colors, Oxford now supports solid colors, with white going particularly well with its complexion. Finally, this woven fabric will make you happy four seasons a year, from the most casual looks to the most dressy outfits. Versatile and multipurpose , it will enhance the slightest casual composition and disinhibit any ensemble deemed too strict. For a first shirt, white Oxford is quite simply all-risk insurance.
- Twill : unlike the previous fabrics, twill is not a plain weave but a so-called "twill" weave. Unlike the first, this is not obtained by the regular interweaving of the warp and weft threads, but by offsetting them during weaving. It is precisely this process that gives twill its characteristic diagonals (and makes it so easy to iron). Silky and strong, we recommend this fabric in a formal register to honor its studied originality.
- Herringbone : Just like twill, herringbone is a twill fabric whose structure is worked to form a "zig-zag" pattern. By alternating up and down, the diagonals of the twill form herringbones, which is why our English-speaking friends decided to call this fabric "herringbone". Here's one you won't forget. PS: the white chevron shirt has such richness and relief that we recommend the sobriety card to complete your outfit.
- Linen : although it is less a fabric than a raw material, linen has such special properties that it seems only fair to add it to this list. Quick drying, exceptional absorbency, thermoregulating power: this natural fiber with the air of the eighth wonder of the world allows you to consider casual white shirts that are particularly popular in summer. Combined or not with other materials, it gives a dry and rustic hand to any fabric to give it an irregular grain that is as tasty as it is imperfect. Lovers of workwear, fans of the Riviera style and other worshipers of raw materials: everyone can relate to linen.
The case of passes.
The cherry on the cake is that the collar of a white shirt is far from trivial. Its shape, length, and details all say something about the one they crown. From the most formal to the most casual, we suggest you review them to master their meaning and essence. Dress collars: designed to accommodate a tie or bow tie, these collars display a presence and proportions that match this ambition. At Hast, large collars, English collars, broken collars, and pin collars belong to this category of sartorial inspiration. In keeping with fabrics of the same vein, they will allow you to compose distinguished outfits without false notes.
Versatile collars : more versatile, our French , semi-cutaway, club or buttoned collars are also more permissive. You can tame these with or without a tie and integrate them into much more casual outfits. Unsurprisingly, you will find them on shirts made with more textured fabrics and closer to the casual world.
Special collars : if you know our attachment to the world of shirts, you will not be surprised to discover on our racks pieces adorned with special collars. This is the case for our Mao , officer or hidden button models. More confidential, these are not common and will allow you to bring an unexpected touch to your white shirts as well as your outfits.
Each style has its own white shirt.
You already knew this if you read our shirt guide : nothing is more different from a white shirt than another white shirt. Between a linen popover and a dobby version, there is a world of difference that reveals all the distance that can separate two models that are apparently similar.
Therefore, it is important to understand the different parameters studied above to best gauge the one that will attract your favor in a given context. Whether you put on a white shirt for a ceremony, a business dinner, a day of work or a lunch on the grass, the atmosphere will be different and so will your needs.
Generally speaking, the rule that prevails is this: the more serious the occasion, the more simple it is. It is hard to go wrong, in fact, with a white poplin shirt with a French collar . Symmetrically, the more informal the circumstances, the more eccentricity they allow (all things considered) in terms of fabric and collar.
As an example, here is the shirt we would choose depending on the situation:
- For an evening at the opera , worn with a tuxedo and bow tie: a white poplin shirt, wing collar.
- For a wedding , worn with a fresco wool suit and a knitted tie: a white pinpoint shirt, semi-cutaway collar.
- For a professional lunch , worn with a charcoal gray suit: a white twi l shirt , French collar.
- For an office day , worn with jeans and a work jacket: a white oxford shirt, large button-down collar.
- For a brunch on the terrace, worn with chinos and an overshirt: a white linen button-down shirt.
Obviously, the codes presented here are less immutable rules than theoretical and general bases. Mastering them is above all giving yourself the right to free yourself from them with style; and it is in this spirit that all our white shirts offer you their services.
