Le pourcentage de retrait

The withdrawal percentage

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Whether in fashion or other fields, certain themes remain relatively little covered, often due to a lack of teaching and because it is considered that these subjects do not sell.
On the contrary, we are convinced that it is essential to understand what you are buying. And of course, we therefore think it is important to explain our approach and our products to you. A good understanding of a subject allows you to better understand it, with a certain perspective and a more global vision (for example, a high titration is a sign of quality but also of a form of fragility).

The withdrawal percentage

We promise, it's not as technical as it sounds. In fact, we're going to explain why you sometimes feel a little tighter in a new shirt that you just washed.
Because yes, this feeling is very real. Of course, it varies depending on how you choose and wear a shirt: if you tend to buy your shirts quite loose, you may not even notice any difference.

What is this ?

Simply a measure of the shrinkage of the fabric. This percentage can vary depending on the raw material (we particularly distinguish between natural and synthetic materials), and the weave (the weave). For obvious reasons of comfort and quality, we choose to work only with natural materials such as cotton, linen or ramie.

Natural fibers are particularly sensitive to the phenomenon, which is due to attractions between molecules, called hydrogen bonds, which form during weaving.
When washing, hot water breaks down some of these bonds, which has the effect of relaxing the fabric. When the water evaporates during drying, the network of fibers is transformed, becoming denser and tighter.
For each of our fabrics, we agree with our suppliers on a maximum shrinkage margin (less than 2%) in order to guarantee that the original cut of your shirt is maintained over time. Please note that this shrinkage occurs from the first washes; then the fabric stabilizes and no longer moves.


Before washing

Hydrogen bonds are formed during weaving and create a constructed and organized network.


During washing

Under the action of water and heat, the attraction between molecules weakens. The molecules separate.


When drying

New connections are formed, modifying the original network, making it denser and tighter.

Why do some clothes shrink more than normal?

Since the material and weave have an impact on this shrinkage percentage, the care will not be the same for a thick wool sweater as for a double-ply poplin shirt. The way you wash your shirts will therefore play an important role in its longevity, whether in terms of shrinkage or fading (especially on certain denim shirts for example).
To ensure that your shirts last over time, it is recommended to never exceed 40°C when washing (we even recommend 30°C as a precaution, as some machines are more powerful than others) and to let them air dry on a hanger (forget the tumble dryer once and for all).


Step 1

Wash your shirt at 30° maximum. Do not overload your machine.

Step 2

Prefer a delicate cycle. Set the spin to 400/600 rpm.

Step 3

Place your shirt on a hanger. It will dry while becoming wrinkle-free.

Should I choose my shirt one size bigger then?

No, choose a shirt that fits you. When trying on your shirt, make sure it fits your body shape (fitted or extra-fitted).

As a reminder, here are some points to check:

Neck warmer

You should be able to close the collar, without it being too tight. If the cut of the shirt suits you but you cannot close the collar, you can also move the button if necessary.


Shoulder

With your arms at your sides, the sleeve should start at the top of the shoulder and end at the break of the wrist. You can also put a jacket on top, the sleeve should extend slightly beyond it.

Bust

At the bust and waist level, you should not see any tension at the buttons. Don't hesitate to sit down when trying it on, in order to feel your comfort at the stomach level in particular (think about meetings)!

With the arrival of more fitted cuts in recent years, many of you want a shirt that is very close to the body. However, we advise you to take into account the slight shrinkage of the shirt when washing in order to avoid unpleasant surprises, especially with noble fabrics with a high count, which risk wearing out more quickly because of the high tension applied.