It was July 1919 when publisher Maxwell Perkins agreed to publish the first novel by a certain Francis Scott Fitzgerald. The Other Side of Paradise appeared a few months later and, along with that of its hero Amory Blaine, painted a portrait of a disoriented youth, drowning the traumatic memory of the Great War in jazz and drunkenness. From the very first chapter, readers of the man who would become the leader of the Lost Generation discovered a word that no one had ever written down: "T shirt."
The story of an icon
Behind the anecdote, there is a historical reality that we feel is important to relate to introduce the story of this piece that has become a cult classic . Indeed, it was on the shoulders of the American military that the T-shirt as we know it today experienced its first hours of glory. Inspired by the wool flannel undershirts favored by the British Navy, the US Navy developed a short-sleeved cotton knit and decided to make it the official underwear of its uniforms in 1913. The great-grandson of medieval nightshirts and grandson of Long John or Union Suit combinations, this round-neck knit easily found its name thanks to its famous "T" shape.
At that time, the T-shirt was still just an item of underwear, and sailors needed hierarchical authorization to wear it on deck without a jacket or shirt. It was not until the end of the War that it returned to dry land at the same time as the soldiers, and that the latter began to wear it as is. It would only take a handful of weeks for athletes and young people to perceive the full potential of this item, and even less for Fitzgerald to integrate it into the wardrobe of his hero leaving for Princeton.
Throughout the first half of the 20th century, brands like Hanes, Sears and Fruit of the Loom fought for control of this promising market, trying by all means to change the "underwear" image of the t-shirt, which was widely anchored in people's minds.
Even more than advertising, it was (once again) the war that would allow the "tee" to enter into legend. This time, definitively. On the backs of the GIs, and supported by intense war propaganda, it embodied in the eyes of the world a certain idea of American power and victorious America.
This cover, particularly daring for the time, clearly contributed to the emancipation of the T-shirt and its inclusion in a composite image: quiet strength, triumphant masculinity, the American way of life , etc.
As soon as the world war ended, it was - as is often the case - cinema that would finish raising this garment to the pinnacle. In a similar register, it would dazzle the entire world on the shoulders of Montgomery Clift ( A Place in the Sun, 1951 ), Marlon Brando ( The Wild One, 1953 ) and James Dean ( Rebel Without a Cause, 1955 ).
Ambiguous and enigmatic, the prodigal son of pajamas and the military uniform, admirable for some and indecent for others, the T-shirt thus obtained the status of a piece in its own right in the 50s and 60s. Tolerated more than accepted, it established itself as an " outershirt " (or "outerwear") and thus showed itself to all.
In the open air, it releases its full potential and appears as a real space of expression that brands, organizations and collectives rush to occupy. Imtely after its consecration, it becomes a communication medium: electoral campaigns, political demands, protest slogans, marketing operations, humorous messages, everything is a pretext for customization and the plain T-shirt quickly gives way to its screen-printed counterpart. Added to its iconic design is a dimension of appropriation and personal expression, which further adds to the list of achievements of this unique knit.
Born from the obvious union of comfort and functionality , the T-shirt can be considered a total piece. In 110 years of existence - in its contemporary form at least - it has in fact fulfilled all functions, to the point of becoming the very symbol of a sector in the grip of frenzy. Underwear and combat gear, sportswear and undershirt, marketing object and symbol of protest, rallying power and social marker, dyed, faded, printed or embroidered, worked by ultra fast-fashion as well as by the biggest luxury brands, it has established itself over the decades as the best-selling basic on the planet.
More closely linked than any other to that of the textile industry, the trajectory of the T-shirt reveals an exponential boom and the excesses that are systematically associated with it: relocation motivated by profit, lack of traceability, use of cheap raw materials (synthetic and/or poor quality), human exploitation, exhaustion of natural and energy resources, pollution of soil, water and the atmosphere, etc.
Today more than ever, the T-shirt embodies the most beautiful face of clothing , as well as its darkest side. Cornerstone of any wardrobe and emblem of consumerist madness, sold in billions of copies each year, it seems capable of the best as well as the worst, which is why Hast has been busy defending its honor. And yours at the same time.
Anatomy of the T-shirt
As you can see, a T-shirt is a short-sleeved knit whose "T" shape gave it its name. That being said, several elements can vary from one T-shirt to another, so it is difficult to find two identical ones:
- The material : first in wool then in cotton , the contemporary T-shirt can count on a wide choice of fibers to dress its fabric. On an industrial scale, polyester and cotton are in a good position, but linen, hemp, merino, ramie and other artificial fibers (lyocell or viscose) allow us to imagine interesting alternatives and blends. At Hast, we only work with natural raw materials , which is why organic cotton and linen are our favorites.
- The cut : historically close to the body, the T-shirt has not been limited to its role as an undershirt and has allowed itself, over the ages, some experiments in terms of volume. So we have seen it sometimes wide and loose (in the 90s in particular), sometimes slim and long. For our part, we preferred to remain faithful to its most classic and harmonious proportions: a straight cut falling perfectly on the hips , effective in pants as well as outside.
- The collar : rectangular for Royal Navy sailors, round for the American Navy, V-shaped on occasion, everything (or almost) is possible on a T-shirt in terms of collar. By adjusting its shape, its cutout and its construction, it is possible to obtain more or less original results to vary the registers. On our racks, however, you will not find anything extravagant or wacky: our collars are round , perfectly proportioned and assembled with the greatest care . In our humble opinion, it is absolutely the best ratio of elegance-comfort-versatility.
- Sleeve length : Just take a look at Marlon Brando's photo to see that the sleeves of the time were spectacularly short. They reached well above the biceps and had a rather unsightly curve. Considering that it was a piece that was worn under other clothing, we don't find much to object to, but we have to admit that this design would be inappropriate today. Too short or too long, the sleeves of the T-shirt tend to deconstruct the silhouette (just as the bar of the "T" could not reasonably grow or shrink without being offensive to the eye). Therefore, you will see that ours stop more or less at mid-bicep, which seems to us to be the ideal length .
- Assembly : Unlike a shirt, a T-shirt is knitted (not woven) . For this reason, it can possibly be assembled in one piece - without side seams - using special knitting machines. In this case, it is called " tubular ". Otherwise, the mesh panels are assembled in the classic way to give the piece its shape, in which case you will find the famous seams at the sides.
- The fantasies : by freeing itself from the underwear category, the T-shirt was quick to assert its rights in terms of originality. Screen printing, embroidery, chest pocket: all have made a place in the sun on the most famous of knits. At Hast, sobriety and timeless chic are an integral part of our DNA, which is why we build our collections with moderation and temperance. That being said, we are not afraid to dare to step aside on occasion, either by writing our values at the heart of our T-shirts , or by adding a little extra soul.
- Color : an open secret, progress in dyeing has made it possible to infinitely extend the choice of colors in textiles. A universal garment if ever there was one, the T-shirt is obviously no exception. From the famous hippie tie & dye to our current color palettes, the love affair between color and this cult piece is not new. At Hast, we work with classic shades and other more daring ones, all while using a variety of know-how. On the one hand, it is difficult to do more natural than our no-dye creations which are simply not dyed . On the other hand, we use different forms of dyeing to enhance our colored pieces: garment dye consists of dyeing the garment after assembly , which gives it a subtly faded appearance ; while yarn or roll dyeing reveals a much more uniform tone. Depending on the style you want to wear with your outfit, one or the other will certainly have its little effect.
The advantages of Hast T-shirts
Of the 100 billion new items of clothing sold each year worldwide, the T-shirt often ends up on the top step of the podium. Over time, it has become a symbol of disposable fashion and hyper-consumption, and its unreasonable production is increasingly criticized: use of low-end fibers, excessive use of natural resources, water and soil pollution, exploitation of farmers and workers, etc.
Faced with the humanitarian, health and environmental disaster, it was important for us to offer our customers a respectable and responsible alternative. As indicated in our article advice for identifying a quality t-shirt , we have taken care of each step of our production chain to guarantee you a piece worthy in every respect. 100% natural fibers for your health and that of the planet, choice of labeled materials to meet our social and ecological requirements, high weight for resistance and durability, simple and effective color palette combining no dye and garment dye , European manufacturing ensured by craftsmen we know personally: so many guarantees that will allow you to invest with confidence and conscience. That's also honesty.
The special case of polo
Today, it would be easy to mistake polo for a simple T-shirt with a shirt collar. However, their paths are very different and deserve to be explored for a moment. Unlike the T-shirt's European roots, it is in India that you have to go to find those of its counterpart. And more precisely on the polo fields, an elite equestrian sport imported from the steppes of Central Asia. Under the influence of the Maharajah of Jodhpur, players shortened the sleeves and the length of their shirts, sewed buttons on the collar to prevent it from flying in the wind and invented, almost involuntarily, the "polo shirt".
Repatriated to the Old Continent by British colonists, it was not until the 1920s and a certain Jean-René Lacoste - a tennis player - that it was given its definitive aesthetic.
In a century, it has not moved a millimeter, which seems to be the prerogative of legendary pieces.
At Hast, we interpret it according to this mythical route, combining the ease of the T-shirt and the elegance of the shirt. Short-sleeved in organic supima cotton or long-sleeved in merino wool , there is no doubt that you will find the one you dream of.
Wearing the T-shirt in two lessons
Closing parenthesis, let's get back to our t-shirts. As far as we know, there are only two ways to wear them: alone or with others.
In the first case, and depending on the desired effect, you can bet on absolute sobriety or on taking a step back. Generally, only summer allows you to wear a T-shirt without escort, which will allow you to vary the pleasures and colors. From the classic-classic (and unbeatable) white model to the more colorful versions, you will only have to test to find your favorite assortment.
In the second case, the field of possibilities is much wider. In this register, the T-shirt regains its former status and plays, as before, the supporting roles. That being said, it is not relegated to the rank of underwear strictly speaking , and rather asserts itself as an adjuvant in a layering. A way to get noticed discreetly.
By showing the tip of your nose under a shirt and/or a work jacket or a blazer , you will actually show much more than that: a pronounced taste for casual elegance, a mastery marked by nonchalance, the science of casual chic.
The question of maintenance
Like all underwear items that come into direct contact with the skin, the T-shirt is one of those items of clothing that should be washed after each wear. Fortunately, it is a relatively easy- care item, which only requires a few precautions for use. At Hast, we advise you to machine wash your knit inside out (to avoid damaging the front if it rubs) and to limit the spin cycle to 400 or 600 revolutions per minute. Depending on the material of your item, you can opt for a delicate program or not, without exceeding 30°C . To avoid the risk of deformation and limit discoloration, dry flat and away from direct sunlight. Ironing is perfectly possible, provided you choose an appropriate temperature - higher or lower depending on whether your garment is made of linen, cotton or wool. Nothing rocket science, then, but nothing trivial either. Respecting these subtleties can in fact double or even triple the life expectancy of a T-shirt, which is no small feat when you consider that it is the most discarded item on an international scale.
The final word
Between homage, praise and fashion archaeology, we have traveled together through the crazy history of the T-shirt and its interpretation at Hast. A true clothing legend, it is today the best-selling item in the world , with all that this supremacy entails, good and bad. Faithful to our values of honesty and responsibility , we work on our side on worthy and sustainable models with the ambition of cleaning up its production chain. Timeless designs, noble natural materials , 100% European manufacturing and careful finishing: our T-shirts are all promises of elegance and durability, to allow you to enter the legend in all conscience.
