Le guide de la veste de travail

The work jacket guide

Read time 10

Although it is difficult to determine the precise date of birth of the work jacket, we can safely say that its destiny is closely linked to that of the industrial revolution . From the end of the 18th century and throughout the 19th, this garment will experience increasing popularity by meeting the new needs of artisans and manual workers. In a context of mechanization where the role of machines becomes significant, clothing adapts to the new situation to meet the needs of workers. Safety, robustness and practicality then become the key words for making reliable clothing, and it is in France that the work jacket becomes the queen . Recognizable by its signet collar, its imposing patch pockets and its moleskin fabric, it gradually establishes itself as an absolute reference. In factories and workshops, the jacket thus supplants the blouse on men's backs thanks to properties that still characterize it today: it keeps you warm , it is extraordinarily robust , it has a large storage capacity and it claims an almost infinite life expectancy . Two centuries of changes later, this monument of French clothing heritage has not aged a day and remains a centerpiece of the tricolor wardrobe. An iconic item that Hast seized on in 2019 with an ambition that has remained unchanged since: to conform this sacred monster to the uses of contemporary urbanites. Always with rigor, honesty and transparency , of course.

Safely arrived

At the time, the work jacket was worn as a protective uniform that was complemented by trousers made of the same material - often called "largeot" . This is no longer the case today and our beloved piece, while retaining its early soul, has largely freed itself from working-class spheres. By capitalizing on our expertise in shirtmaking, we have declined it over time in a large number of materials , sizes and colors to make it a relevant ally for any occasion and in all registers.

This unique versatility, the work jacket draws from a timeless design that we have been able to put at the service of new lifestyles for today's men.

Finally, our interpretation of this Franco-French garment assumes the dual ambition of honoring its history and perpetuating it by adapting it to contemporary uses. In a workwear style , it will thus breathe authenticity associated with chinos and a pair of boots; but nothing prevents you from considering it in a dressy outfit as a suit jacket. Its straight cut, clean lines and glorious design allow it to effortlessly switch from one style to another and to integrate with the same ease into formal and casual outfits. Open or buttoned up to the top, worn over a T-shirt or a shirt, in a studied layering or not, with jeans or pleated pants, there is no look that can intimidate the one who has been making the good days of the tricolor wardrobe for more than 200 years.

A historic cut

If the work jacket is one of those few pieces that are recognizable at first glance, it is largely thanks to its legendary cut . As is often the case when the utilitarian aspect was at stake, at the time it was a question of achieving the synthesis between safety, protection, balance and efficiency: an equation successfully solved. The straight cut, the patch pockets, the mid-buttock length, the buttoning, the signet collar: everything exudes both simplicity and necessity in this jacket that has become cult. By tackling its modernization in 2019 , it was obviously not a question of betraying its origins, and it is in a spirit of homage that we have designed all our work jackets . Unsurprisingly, you will find on each of them the invariants of this centuries-old history, combined with unique natural materials that will stand the test of the third millennium.

Materials up to par

In the 19th and 20th centuries, cotton moleskin was the star of work jackets, renowned for its extraordinary strength and resistance to all tests. At Hast, we have decided to introduce new materials, from the thickest to the lightest , and to work with different fabrics for today's men. You will therefore find:

Virgin wool . A natural, warm, insulating and thermoregulating material, we obviously thought of it to dress some of our jackets. A bold and relevant variation that instantly injects a dose of elegance into the product without distorting it. Ours comes straight from Italy and weighs 320 g/m2 , which makes it an ideal partner for the mid-season (and winter under a coat).

Recycled wool . You know our commitment to responsible production, and this does not stop at the selection of natural materials. For several years, we have been striving to work with recycled materials at the same time, like this jacket made from an original fabric certified "Global Recycled Standard" : 70% recycled wool , 15% recycled polyester , 10% recycled polyamide and 5% other recycled fibers .

Velvet. While comfort was not the primary concern of workers during the Industrial Revolution, we have chosen to give it pride of place in our collections by introducing corduroy models with different rib sizes. Real cocoons of softness that will bring texture to your outfits and warmth to your hearts.

Linen. Before cotton supplanted them, hemp and linen were the mainstays of the textile industry. The latter, of which France is quite simply the world's leading producer , is now regaining all its splendor and reconnecting with its former popularity. Given its properties, there's nothing very surprising about that: it's a strong, breathable, absorbent, thermoregulating natural fiber that uses little water, is totally recyclable and 100% biodegradable . We don't know anything more responsible. As a bonus, it has a fairly rustic, raw look that works wonderfully on work jackets. Unsurprisingly, we've worked on two in this gifted material: a 100% linen model for lovers of this material, and a cotton (23%) and linen (77%) version to add a little extra softness .

Organic cotton twill. Recognizable by its oblique ribs obtained by a particular weave, twill is both flexible and very robust. It can be used to make very resistant mid-weight fabrics (especially to tears), as illustrated by jeans, which are the best representatives. Unsurprisingly, we have produced some of our work jackets in an organic cotton twill with a density of 290 g/m2 , the ideal weight for mid-season and cool summer evenings.

Denim. We no longer present this iconic material (which is incidentally a form of twill), but it is not useless to specify that we have given ourselves the pleasure of cutting one of our jackets in this legendary fabric . An alternative to the denim jacket, this version as refined as it is elegant evokes at the same time the Wild West and the traditional tricolor wardrobe, which only bodes well.

The indescribable moleskin , of course. This material is new for 2022. We got our hands on an Italian canvas made by a renowned Italian house to offer you a jacket that is the height of authenticity. You will find the velvety feel of the original fabric and the "peach skin" appearance characteristic of moleskin. Obtained by weaving cotton threads very tightly in warp and weft, it displays a density and robustness that made it the ideal material for vintage workwear jackets . Resurrected for you, we offer you a 395 g/m2 edition that you will tell us about.

A cult collar and a wink

If you've been following along, you'll know that the work jacket is historically linked to a particular collar: the knight's collar . Unlike the lapel collar, which is open on the torso at the initiative of our British neighbors, this one goes up to the neck, so to speak. Eminently French, it has the advantage of covering the chest , throat and neck (thanks to panels that can be raised). Respect for the product obliges, this is the model that we have favored on our work jackets . On all our jackets? Not exactly, because we have taken the liberty of introducing a pretty rounded club collar on the denim model. A way of almost imperceptibly bringing an original and welcome twist to this anthology piece.

Unique colors

Gone are the days when the colour of a work jacket indicated the wearer's profession (black for carpenters, white for painters, Prussian blue for most other manual workers). At Hast, we have chosen to introduce a rich range whose sole ambition is to bring the most beautiful shades possible to your outfits. Sober or bright, it's up to you to choose from the shades offered, all enhanced by luminous materials with an exceptional texture. Duck blue or mottled, anise green or olive, rust, plum, brown, navy, beige, khaki or even indigo : there is something for all tastes and for all occasions.

To wear in all circumstances

Like all the pieces that make up Hast's wardrobe, the work jacket shines with its versatility. Due to its timeless, refined design , it is so versatile that it will easily adapt to any outfit you include it in. Whether you use it as a blazer paired with dress pants or bring it back to its roots in a workwear look , whether you display it proudly or hide it between several layers of clothing in a layering, it will always be ready to serve; and this from the first mildness of spring to the first cold of winter. Despite its proudly working-class roots, the whole challenge of its modernization was to allow it to be worn more generally: this is done with the versions that are offered to you in unique materials and colors . On jeans or chinos, covering a shirt (possibly with a tie) or a t-shirt, balanced on a sweatshirt or on a turtleneck, you will be delighted to see that all styles are allowed .

Taking care of your work jacket

A little open secret for the end: maintenance makes up half of the life expectancy of your clothes. Even though we work them with the greatest possible care in natural materials of excellent quality by mobilizing prestigious European know-how, it is the care that you take of them that will largely determine their durability. Concerning the work jacket, here are some recommendations that we suggest you follow in this regard:

  • When you are not wearing it, we strongly advise you to store it on a wooden hanger with wide shoulders . To keep it in good shape over time and to naturally smooth it out under the effect of gravity, it is simply essential.
  • If you do get a stain , a little soapy water should remove most of them if you're quick enough.
  • Although the work jacket is an outdoor garment and it is not good to wash it every morning, a good cleaning will not hurt it two to three times a year . For this operation, we recommend hand washing in barely lukewarm water, using an organic detergent . For models made of wool, recycled wool and moleskin, a trip to the dry cleaners will be necessary to have them dry cleaned .
  • If you wash your twill or velvet jacket by hand, avoid twisting it when spinning . Instead, press it to remove most of the liquid, and let it dry on a hanger with the buttons closed.

With the work jacket, you are touching on a part of French clothing heritage . Entering the pantheon of iconic tricolor clothing thanks to a centuries-old history, this piece is known worldwide for its design and functionality. Since 2019 , we have capitalized on our expertise in shirting to make this utility jacket a model adapted to the new uses of our customers. Between tradition and modernity , we have declined this icon in different colors and materials to satisfy the desires and needs of today's men, without taking away anything from the elements that have forged its legend. Timeless, versatile and full of personality, our interpretations of the work jacket are like the Hast wardrobe: a concentrate of elegance , versatility and authenticity .

Articles that might interest you