The essential, wrote Saint-Exupéry, is invisible to the eye. Perhaps this is why suit jackets hide their game so well, concealing the secrets of their construction close to the heart. Confidentiality for confidence, we reveal ours in this article.
Back to basics
Their price may have tipped you off: suit jackets and other blazers are among the most complex garments to make. What is true in the art of tailoring (a single piece requiring dozens of hours of work) is also true in industrialized manufacturing: the number of steps is considerable and the method laborious.
The first consists of trapping a heat-sealed fabric in the lining of the jacket before heating it with an iron to fix it to the fabric. The panels of the latter are thus maintained, which provides structure and ensures a clean drape. Problems: this glued fabric is made of synthetic material, which induces zero breathability, very relative flexibility and promotes the appearance of blisters over time. Fast, practical and inexpensive, this technique largely dominates the market, especially that of ready-to-wear.
The second is a hybrid in that it combines iron-on and tailoring canvas. The iron-on layer will be placed on the lower part of the jacket, while a so-called “tailoring” canvas (generally composed of a mixture of linen, wool and horsehair fibres) will cover its upper half. In addition to being natural, the latter is not glued but built, which allows for optimal flexibility and fluidity of the plastron. More complicated, this semi-canvassed construction is automatically more expensive; but it is infinitely more sophisticated. Comfort, refinement, durability: it displays properties inaccessible to iron-on assembly.
We will quickly move on to the third method in that it is reserved for Grande Mesure. Indeed, total interlining only exists, in the vast majority of cases, on the side of bespoke jackets, made from A to Z by artisan tailors. It is incontestably the queen of constructions, but it results in 4-figure pieces, far from the prices that our philosophy requires us to practice.
Our first semi-canvassed jackets
As the title of this article revealed, we have chosen the semi-canvas construction for this fall-winter 2024 collection . True to our ambition to produce exceptional clothing for your everyday life, we are pleased to offer you this luxurious process, extremely rare in the world of ready-to-wear.
This season, our four single-breasted jackets and our double-breasted jacket are assembled in this way, with a particularity that is far from trivial. Indeed, the interlining (this famous floating canvas sewn between the visible face and the lining of the jacket) was developed exclusively for Hast. As a result, it fits perfectly on the bust of our jackets to offer a clean and neat hold. In particular, it gives a unique structure to the sleeve head, subtly evoking the “cigarette” characteristic of classic British elegance.
Coupled with graphic lines and generous 8.5 cm lapels (10 for the double-breasted jacket), this construction betrays a shift towards sartorial art. A plea for elegance and know-how, two notions to which you are not insensitive either.
Wear our semi-canvassed jackets
As confidential as it may be, the semi-canvassed assembly in no way directs the destination of a jacket made in this way. Invisible to the naked eye, except in the purity of its movement, this construction flatters both sports jackets and dress jackets. Unsurprisingly, you can therefore wear ours in a more or less formal register.
On a warm and textured sweater for example, accessorizing the whole thing to the rhythm of the autumnal bad weather. Worked in a moleskin cotton that has nothing to envy to wool flannels, this shaggy hand jacket lends itself particularly well to it.
On a turtleneck knit, to bring verticality to a casual-chic outfit while keeping sore throats at bay. If the shine of our Prince of Wales wool double-breasted jacket intimidates you, this is a great option to calm your ardor with ease.
On a casual shirt, like this indomitable 100% cotton chambray western shirt . The combination of a semi-canvassed dress jacket and a casual shirt is not a given, but you will agree with us that it is devilishly convincing. The most daring among you will even add a contrasting silk scarf , provided they leave their cowboy boots in the closet. Although.
With a formal shirt and tie , of course. In this case, the alternative of contrasting trousers is available to you if the two-piece composition seems too austere to you.
Otherwise, choosing the matching suit always pays off. This form of suit has embodied masculine elegance for two centuries, and you can't go wrong with the most refined of uniforms.
Manifesto of accessible excellence
Basically, the choice of semi-traditional assembly (another name for semi-interlining) was obvious to Hast. With passion and rigor, we build a timeless wardrobe under the sign of accuracy, and this construction is the perfect embodiment of this in the world of the suit jacket. It requires expertise, know-how and precision, characteristics that we have cherished since 2016.
Today, we are proud to offer you pieces of this quality, entirely made in Europe from certified natural fibers.
Transparency, awareness, honesty, responsibility and virtuosity: in these five semi-canvassed suit jackets you will find the basic ingredients of each piece, of each of our collections and of the Hast recipe as a whole.