“Sartorial.” The word impresses. The term intimidates. The name fascinates.
Coming from the Latin "sartor" (the tailor), it gave "sarto" in Italian; then "sartoria" to designate the latter's workshop. Like the trattoria on the kitchen side, the sartoria thus asserts itself as the place of all pleasures for lovers of formal clothing.
Borrowed from our transalpine friends, inventors of a certain idea of classical elegance, sartorial art thus designates "any garment or accessory having the appeal, aesthetics or characteristics of being handmade or manufactured according to the rules of tailoring art" .
In French, a neologism translates this manner of masculine elegance including etiquette, attitude, charm and know-how: sartorialism.
In this article, we suggest you dissect the ins and outs by focusing our attention on a Lady you know well: the shirt.
What is a sartorial shirt?
Restoring the dress shirt to its former glory: this is the ambition that has driven Hast since 2012. Between inaccessible luxury and fast fashion, we wanted to introduce an alternative with honest, high-end and affordable pieces.
By capitalizing on sourcing, manufacturing and finishing, we drew inspiration from the codes of fine shirtmaking to create models of absolute precision , around which we then built an entire wardrobe.
The sartorial shirt is precisely this original shirt: a shirt crafted in 100% natural material, cut to perfection, assembled with the greatest care and finished with a meticulousness worthy of the art of tailoring.
Hast Sartorial Shirts
Among our shirts, many claim the honorary title that interests us today. Sartorialism being a delicate art, it is appropriate to consider certain details to determine those that could legitimately claim to be of this noble species . Among them, here are the most determining:
- Color. Science of taste and refinement, elegance tolerates eccentricities with difficulty. Sartorialism, which is its emanation in the field of clothing, naturally follows this movement. In the shirt department, our white references therefore start with a considerable advantage; they whose light and sobriety are in themselves synonymous with grace and delicacy. Considering that blue is the new white - an idea that is gaining ground among the advocates of dandyism - our blue shirts could in turn claim the supreme adjective.
- The fabric. Depending on the preferred weaving technique, the final result will display particular characteristics. Usually, we consider that fabrics are all the more formal when they are smooth and silky. To dress a sartorial shirt, cotton poplin is therefore largely preferred, with its tight weave and its almost satiny finish. To a lesser extent, more textured fabrics can be suitable for these distinguished shirts, provided that they are constructed from very fine threads. Despite their texture, certain oxfords , twills or even herringbones can thus adorn a shirt respectful of sartorial codes.
The collar. It is to the shirt what the crown is to any monarch, and it is therefore appropriate to choose it accordingly. Besides, not all collars can adorn a sartorial shirt, and only some of them have this privilege. In our opinion, here are which ones:
- The semi-cutaway collar : borrowed from the Italian sprezzatura, interpreted by Hast, it represents the culmination of months of work to achieve the ideal proportions and perfect balance. With or without a tie, its generous opening will be noticed at first glance.
- The French collar : an absolute model of structure and harmony, this one has proven itself and remains, over time, the classic collar par excellence .
- Large collars : With their 8 to 9 cm points, they are a direct reminder of the world of high-end shirtmaking. Keeping their distance from the "pie shovel" collars, they offer generous width and absolute presence. In essence, they are more suited to wearing with a tie and under a suit jacket with wide lapels, but you don't have to.
- The wing collar : ceremonies oblige, we have also worked this collar to the height of chic. Intended to accommodate a bow tie, its short triangular flaps sing a hymn to delicacy. To be reserved for (very) special occasions.
- The English collar: here is one that represents the British sartorial style: sophisticated, discreet, structured. Its small tab allows you to highlight your tie, giving it hold and relief. Welcome to Savile Row.
- The bottom of the sleeve. An aesthetic detail with a particularly demanding construction, the musketeer cuff allows you to add cufflinks to your shirt. From then on, the pieces that are equipped with them instantly assume a special status, more assertive and more elegant.
Wearing the sartorial shirt
Directly inspired by the art of tailoring, our sartorial shirts are undoubtedly among the most elegant in our wardrobe. In fact, it is appropriate to accompany them as they should be, that is to say with items of the same register.
As for our legwear, we suggest you opt for refined models like our pleated pants or our stunning double-pleated pants .
On your sartorial shirt, it is inevitably a suit jacket that you will have to wear if the temperature allows it. Straight, double-breasted or tailored, it is up to you to choose the one that will suit your complexion best.
Finally, don't forget to accessorize. Ties , pocket squares , bow ties , collar stays : all are ready to serve alongside his majesty the sartorial shirt.
The final word
A proud descendant of a tradition of formal elegance, the sartorial style is a vestige of a certain idea of dress and courtesy. De rigueur in certain professional circles and circumstantial on certain occasions, it nevertheless remains marginal, assailed from all sides by defenders of a more relaxed style.
Fortunately, many sartorialists still resist the invader, proud to perpetuate a tradition where clothing and good manners go hand in hand.
As the leader of this romantic resistance, the shirt embodies this passionate heroism more than any other piece. On your shoulders, perhaps?